La Couronnette
Barbara et Thierry Courvoisier
Janvier à Tromsø
L'hiver continue de dérouler ses frimas et ses lumières



Si les Grecs avaient été norvégiens, Sisyphe aurait déblayé la neige de son bateau. Il en aurait retiré autant de satisfaction qu’en poussant son rocher au sommet d’une montagne et en le voyant chaque fois rouler vers le bas avant de recommencer. La neige tombe aujourd’hui sans discontinuer, à peine le  bateau déneigé qu’il redevient tout blanc. Je ne peux que me réjouir de recommencer. Je suis venu ici dans l’idée d’écrire et de balayer la neige, je suis comblé.

Barbara travaille comme bénévole au “Tromsø International Film Festival”, une manifestation annuelle qui marque la semaine pendant laquelle le soleil éclaire pour la première fois la rue principale de la ville. Ce sera samedi, le 21. Cela lui permet de voir moults films, dont quelques uns excellents. Avant cet emploi, Barbara vendait des “whale safari” pour une petite organisation dont la patronne a autant d’idée que de problèmes pour s’organiser.


Une partie du festival se tient en plein air

S’il est vrai que la vie quotidienne à bord au fond de l’hiver polaire est plus chronophage que dans une maison sous des latitudes tempérées, la nature nous aura offert ces dernières semaines des couleurs et des spectacles à couper le souffle. (Les photos qui suivent sont de Barbara.)


Barbara a créé un "jardin" sous la bâche de Cérès.

Quatre voiliers habités occupaient notre ponton le 31 décembre. Certains équipages, dont celui de  Cérès  qui recevait Dominique et Christophe Raymond et Françoise et André Kissling, avaient des hôtes, trop de monde donc pour organiser un dîner commun dans un de nos carrés. Mais juste le bon nombre pour boire un apéritif ensemble sur le ponton sous un ciel qui s’était dégagé et qu’une magnifique aurore boréale ornait à ce moment. A minuit le décor avait changé, une solide tempête de neige avait remplacé les lumière arctiques et un feu d’artifice fut tiré du quai plutôt que de la montagne voisine. Féérique, mais un déchet s’est posé en haut de notre mat et bloque maintenant notre anémomètre.


Feu d'artifice de la nuit du 31 décembre


Enfants sur le ponton le 31 décembre

Le week end du 7 janvier nous sommes partis pour Harstad. Le trajet devait se faire par bateau en trois heures. Le temps était cependant tel que le bateau du vendredi à 16h30 n’est pas parti, ni celui de 20h30, qui fut remplacé par un bus. La géographie de la Norvège étant ce qu’elle est, le bus met considérablement plus de temps que le bateau; nous sommes arrivée à 3h le samedi matin. Barbara s’est promenée seule un moment le samedi sous la pluie et la neige, je cuvais une solide crève. Dimanche, visite d’un centre historique dans les environs, intéressant, mais il fit dire à Barbara que les meilleurs conservateurs de musées ne posaient probablement pas leur candidature pour oeuvrer dans les petites villes du grand nord norvégien. Le temps ne s’était pas amélioré le dimanche après-midi, le bateau n’est donc pas parti, ni d’ailleurs le bus, les conditions ne permettant même  pas de rouler. Je devenais quelque peu nerveux, car je commençais une série de cinq cours le lundi matin. Le bateau  du soir est heureusement parti et j’ai pu donner mon premier cours comme prévu.


Harstad


Eglise de Trondenes, dans la région de Harstad

Depuis nous avons fait plusieurs escapades en louant une voiture, toutes plus magnifiques les unes que les autres. Nous avons découvert Sommarøy avec Annick et Claude Béguin, une île tout à  l’ouest de l’archipel. Le soleil ne passait pas encore au dessus de l’horizon, mais il n’était plus très loin, les roses avaient donc rejoints les bleus dans le ciel; les couleurs se reflétaient sur la neige des montagnes environnantes.


Rennes le long de la route


Le ciel rosit, le soleil reviendra.


Rorbu dans le froid


Sommaroy

La semaine dernière nous avons embarqué sur Makoré, notre voisin pour une journée dans le Kvaløyfjord, le fjord des baleines. Il soufflait 10 noeuds du sud, juste parfait pour une descente sous voiles. Les orques et baleines furent au rendez-vous, retour au près. Magnifique.






Un orque dans la Kvaløyfjord

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